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March 30, 2005
Walking the Waterfront
I caught a streetcar (the same as a Melbourne tram) into the downtown area with no particular plan in mind as I set out. By the time I reached the city centre I realised I've been away from the ocean for too long. I needed to spend some time near the water. Walking straight down Yonge Street (the main North-South street in the downtown area) it was only 4 blocks or so to the waterfront.
Most cities try to make something of a feature and a place for recreation of their downtown waterfront areas. The planners here seem to have tried to incorporate too many ideas and have ended up doing none well. Either that or they changed their minds halfway through the project.
There's some parkland and several quays with restaurant and cruise boats moored there which is a nice start but they haven't followed through enough with the concept to make it a really entertaining or vibrant place to explore.
There's been a vast amount of condominium development in the city and it's very much still ongoing. Walking along the length of the waterfront there are dozens of glistening glass towers sparkling in the sun like great crystal ornaments in a mirrored display. I don't doubt that part of the reason for the lonely quietness and emptiness is due to the fact that it's the off season but I'm sure the closely spaced condominiums close to the water near the city don't help. The day I walked there it was a warm spring day but the wind whistled chilly, funnelled down those empty, shaded glasss canyons. Because they're residential they're largely empty and quiet through the day when the people who live there are at work.
One bonus is that you can catch some striking glimpses of the CN Tower framed by crystal monoliths;
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March 28, 2005
A Polish Easter
Although my mother was originally from Poland our family didn't retain any of the traditions or language and I've always been curious about that side of my background. Mike's family have maintained closer ties to Polish traditions so I was excited and delighted to be included in their plans.
On Easter Saturday it's customary to take a basket of food to the church to be blessed. Roncesvalles Street is the heart of the Polish community in Toronto and Mike's family live only a few blocks away. The area is a real Polish enclave with shop signs in Polish and the words of a language I haven't heard since I was a child, listening to my mother and grandmother, are thick in the air around me as we walk down the street. I used to be able to catch the gist of a conversation but I find now that it is harder and attempting to follow a thread from snatches heard in a crowd is nearly impossible.
Everyone is dressed in their good Sunday clothes and carrying baskets filled with ham, cheeses, Polish sausage, horseradish, decorated eggs and other delights and covered with embroidered white fabric. We all queue patiently outside the church hall until the doors open and people file in, arranging their baskets around a large u-shaped trestle. The priest utters a stately blessing in Polish and everyone crosses themselves several times. I'm astonished when he begins to make a lightening fast pass along the trestle, sailing across the floor, white robes billowing as he is trailed by an attendant who scurries after him with the bowl of holy water. When he gets to the end of the U-shape he slows and begins liberally sprinkling everyone present with the holy water as he makes his way back down to the front amid laughter all around.
After the baskets of food are blessed we go to a nearby Polish restaurant for soup. Even the waitress is speaking in Polish so I'm happy to let Mike and his sister order for me. The Fasola (bean soup) is delicious, served with a dark rye bread.
Sunday (usually after church but we skipped that bit) is a family gathering for lunch to eat the blessed food. It's served in the form of a rye broth poured into bowls over diced egg, sausage pieces, ham, cheese and horseradish (I need to find out the name). Everyone warned me that I may not like it so I only had a little to start off with. While the broth is slightly bitter it's a bland taste but gets a rich flavour from the added pieces and horseradish - very nice!
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March 27, 2005
Toronto
The last couple of days have been spent walking around the city and getting oriented with the various districts. It's an easy city to get around and with a grid pattern layout it would be difficult to get lost.
There's a pretty walkway and cyclepath right along the waterfront. Yesterday it was a beautiful, warm day and we walked along the waterfront and around High Park for about four hours. Great to stretch the legs and get some fresh air.
Watched people skating on ice outside the city hall, soaked up the atmosphere of the city and saw a chipmunk in the park as well as a couple of other animals (including a few small bison) in a little miniature zoo they have in the park here. Lots of ducks, geese and swans in the lake along the waterfront. There were a lot of people out for the day with the same idea so the people-watching was pretty entertaining. Here are some photos from the last two days;
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March 24, 2005
Algonquin Park, ice wine and a wolf
We set out to see the 'cottage country' of Ontario - an area a couple of hours drive from the city, scattered with lakes and waterways that is a favourite weekend retreat for residents of the city. On Friday afternoons during the summer months the 6 lane highway is bumper to bumper with traffic as people flee the concrete jungle for their weekend getaways swimming, relaxing and boating. Now, with snow still lingering from winter, the traffic is thin and it doesn't take anywhere near as long to get there as it would in summer. Looking at the small frozen lakes, with the occasional ice fishermen huddled on the surface, the surrounding trees bare and grey, I try to imagine the lakes glistening blue in the sun, surfaces abuzz with boats and roads busy with traffic. It all looks so serene at the moment.
We continued driving to the Algonquin Provincial Park and went off the main road a little and stopped beside a beautiful frozen lake.
I don't think I've ever experienced such perfect and complete silence and stillness. There was not a sound and not a breath of wind. Straining to catch a faint sound of bird, animal or wind in trees all I could hear was my own blood racing through my veins.
We had with us a bottle of Lailey Vineyard Ice Wine that we had picked up the day before in Niagara-on-the-Lake. It chilled down beautifully in a snowdrift and we drank it in the cold, perfect stillness beside the frozen lake.
Driving back towards the city after we passed a wolf beside the road. It seemed to be limping slightly but it was one of the most magnificent creatures I have ever seen. There could be no mistaking it for a dog of any breed. Tall and rangy with thick pale fur, a tapering head carried low in line with it's body and the most penetrating pale yellow eyes - I felt they saw right through to my soul in an instant.
It was quite late when we got back to the city - it's a beautiful city by night and I could happily sit and watch this view for hours.
The temptation to open the other bottle of icewine and take it down to the pool and spa here in the apartment complex proved too great. I slept very soundly that night.
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March 23, 2005
Niagara Falls
It was a beautiful, clear, sunny day in Toronto with temperatures in positive figures and Mike had very generously offered to drive me to Niagara Falls. It's about an hour and a half drive to the Falls from Toronto and we arrived about midday. Everyone has seen countless photos and they are regularly featured in travel documentaries but it's difficult to describe the majesty of seeing them up close and personal.
The mist from the falls is so heavy it falls like rain and the deep, low roar resonates in your chest. Most of the photos I've seen were taken in summer but it's incredibly beautiful in winter when it is framed with snow and ice covered rocks. and the edges of the falls have frozen sections.
A spectucular rainbow hangs in the air downriver and another is over the falls themselves.
The USA side of the falls is not as spectactular but there was a broad frozen section at one end (above) that is quite beautiful.
We took the 'Journey behind the Falls' tour and although the lower deck was closed for the winter and the viewing portals behind the falls themselves were iced over it was still worth going to see from this perspective.
The Niagara Falls are so widely photographed and known far and wide but they don't warn you about the town of Niagara itself. It is the epitome of tackiness, the entire mainstreet is like a theme park with rides, sideshows, haunted houses and cheesy souvenir stalls, many of which bear little or no relevance to the Falls at all. What an irony to see one of nature's most magnificent sights set alongside the ultimate in human frivolity. I guess it is designed to cater to a particular market...
We drove further down the Niagara River and through the small town of Niagara-on-the-River which, while still touristy, is at least more tasteful and aimed at a more cultured market. On impulse we stopped at a vineyard that was open and advertising tastings of icewine. I've heard about the famous dessert wine of the Niagara region, made from a very late hand-picking, when the temperature has dropped below -10C and the fruit has been frozen on the vine. To me it is a deliciously complex dessert wine. Not unlike the Botrytis dessert wines in Australia but heavier and more complex. Superb.
Posted by Yasmin at 01:03 AM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
March 21, 2005
Moose Jaw to Toronto
The day dawned to heavier flurries of snow and a cold wind for my flight to Toronto. After the usual morning spent rummaging around the house recovering belongings from every distant corner Ken's Dad and sister Tina arrived to take me to Regina for my flight.
The snow fell more heavily, drifting prettily over the ground as it was blown by the wind, and visibility dropped to a kilometer or two as we travelled. More than once I felt the car waver imperceptibly as the tyres lost their grip on the road but no one else batted an eyelid or broke in the their conversation so I composed my most serene expression and decided it must be acceptable. Ken's Dad seemed quite confident and at ease behind the wheel.
The flight passed uneventfully and I was met at the airport by my couchsurfing.com host, Mike. The plan is to go to Niagara Falls tomorrow - can't wait!
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Barbecues and more goodbyes
We Australians like to think we are the barbecue capital of the world. Every summer, every household in the land enthusiastically dusts off the tongs and fires up the barbecue for this culinary delight throughout the warmer months of the year. I think it's time to concede defeat. Walking home through the streets of Moose Jaw one night I detected a distinctive and familiar aroma. Could it be...? Surely not...? It's -10 and snowing! Hesitantly, I voiced my thoughts and got a casual response "Oh yes, someone's having a barbecue". Apparently it's quite normal for people to clear a path through the snow to their barbecues and nip out in -30C to flip the steaks.
So it was that we had a barbecue at Ken's Mum and Dad's place on the night before my departure. Admittedly it wasn't -30 but I shamelessly left Ken in charge of the barbecue and stayed warm inside. It was superb, complete with beautifully marinated steak and prawns. It felt like a farewell event and while we all laughed and had a great time I still felt that familiar bittersweet sadness deep inside. I've made some good friends here and I'm going to miss you all.
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March 14, 2005
Dancing in the cold
They always say you should be careful what you wish for and as you know, I've been hoping to see some snow and cold weather while I was here. I was thinking something in the -20's C would do nicely to give me a small taste of Canadian winter.
About a week ago I was asked to dance at a surprise 50th birthday party so I've been keeping an eye on the weather in the knowledge that I would have to walk about half an hour each way to get to the house it was being held at.
You won't be surprised to learn that Saturday dawned to the much longed for snow and an expected high of -10C and strong winds to cut that even lower. I didn't know what the floor would be like and knowing the party was to be held in their garage I was aware that it may not be conducive to bare feet. I set out into the snow and wind in my polarfleece jumper and my only coat zipped up to the neck, hooded and gloved, and set off in search of some dance slippers. By happy coincidence I learned at the first shoe shop I encountered that there is a dance-wear shop in town and only 5 blocks or so from where I was.
Walking into the wind with flurries of snow whirling in eddies around my ankles and feeling the chill in a jacket that is ideal for winter in Eden but pitifully inadequate for this climate. I arrived at the dance-wear shop only to discover it was not open for another half an hour. Sighing, I turned my back to the biting wind and walked back into town and bought a few groceries needed before returning back to the dance-wear shop after opening hours to better success.
Was it Billy Connelly who said "There's no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing"? Special thanks to Ken who very kindly loaned me a good water- and wind-proof jacket and accompanied me to the party. When we set out at 9.45pm it was still snowing and with windchill the temperature was about -20C. Only my legs were cold and it was a good incentive to walk briskly!
The party was a lot of fun - a great group of people and my performance was really well received. Everyone had a ball and joined in with clapping and dancing. I had a great time as did everyone there. Good friends!
The walk back over a light covering of snow didn't seem as cold, a combination of adrenaline and the glow of friendship helped to warm us even though the temperature had dropped a little further to -22C. It was still a good feeling to step into the warm house and strip off heavy coats, boots and gloves when we finally got home at about 11.30pm.
Posted by Yasmin at 03:35 AM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
March 10, 2005
"Taking the waters"
The last few days have been spent doing the tourist thing around the thriving metropolis of Moose Jaw.
The Temple Gardens Mineral Spa here has a half price day every Tuesday and entry is only $3.00. One doesn't "swim", "soak" or "bathe" - one "takes the waters" here and they can get away with the pretention because it really is heavenly. There's something deliciously decadent about floating up to your neck, weightless in 42C mineral water while the ambient air temperature is in negative figures and clouds of steam waft mystically up towards the heavens. I made sure I was rendered well and truly prune-like before I allowed myself to be dragged out. Mmmmmm... next Tuesday is looking good!
Moose Jaw wasn't always such a quiet provincial centre. It had a colourful past with it's heyday in the Roaring 20's as a hideout for the infamous Al Capone. Under the city was a complex network of tunnels originally constructed for access to heating boilers but also used for more nefarious purposes over the years. Most have now been blocked off but The Tunnels of Moose Jaw is a popular tourist attraction.
The words 'interactive, theatrical tours' strike a chill into the hearts of most hardened travellers but the tours are well conducted and rich with historical information and a good collection of orginal memorabilia to make it well worthwhile. They don't take themselves too seriously so it's easy to relax and have fun.
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March 06, 2005
New subscription facility
As you can see I've been tweaking the site - it now features a Subscription facility (at left). If you submit your email address you will be automatically notified via email when I add new entries or update this site.
Posted by Yasmin at 08:15 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Photo Album
I've set up a photo album at myphotoalbum.com to store all my photos (in case something happens to my digital camera). Here's the Canada album if you want to view the whole lot. Be warned: there are plenty of duds in there because I haven't been through and deleted the non-keepers yet.
I don't know if the Myphotoalbum interface is ideal so if you know of a better online photo album provider please let me know.
Posted by Yasmin at 05:05 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
March 05, 2005
More on Moose Jaw
I've gotten my CSS templates out of the way for the most part so have had a little time to walk around and explore the town. The snow is well on it's way to melting so the town is not looking it's most attractive right now with grey slush covering every surface. Contrary to what the locals jokingly tell me it is not named Moose Jaw because it is "6 feet from the Moose's arse". The name is actually derived from the Cree word Moosegaw with a "g" meaning "Warm Breezes" and I've noticed listening to the radio station that the temperature here is consistently several degrees above that of Regina, the province's capital about 45min drive away.
Moose Jaw is a small rural city of around 35,000 and at first glance it would be all too easy to dismiss it as yet another town that owes it's existence to the surrounding primary industries. However, as is always the case, a few hours spent walking around reveals the real character of any place.
The first thing that I couldn't help but notice was the Murals of Moose Jaw. There are 36 murals painted on walls of buildings all over town and I love discovering them by accident. Here's a photo of one on top of a historic hotel a couple of blocks from where I am staying.
My friend Ken in front of Crescent Park
Another photo I took while walking through Crescent Park;
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March 02, 2005
Working
Sometimes it's great to have somewhere you can stay and use as a base without worrying about outstaying your welcome or appearing rude if you have work or errands to attend to and that's how I feel here in Moose Jaw. I have a little web design work to do at the moment and it's coincided nicely with my being here in a place where I have high speed internet access and the freedom from obligations to be able to give it my undivided attention.
Apologies to all if entries have been sparse the last week or so but I've been flat out with the CSS templates I'm working on and working to a bit of a deadline. There's light at the end of the tunnel now and I'm looking forward to being able to get out and look around this town, which in many ways reminds me of some of the Central West towns of NSW, Australia.
The fact that I have picked up a cold, which is to be expected when you step from the height of Australian summer to the tail end of Canadian winter, is not conducive to wandering around in -10C in any case.
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